04/29/03:
Didn't find much after leaving the Oregon Sand Dunes until I got to the Sea Lions Cave, 11 miles north of Florence. This is a privately owned strip along US-101 and they charge a $7 entrance fee. For some reason I sprang for the money and I wasn't disappointed.
A walkway led down to a view point that overlooks a bunch of ledges that are a sea lion rookery. This is the only place on the Oregon coast that Steller and California sea lions give birth to their pups. Everywhere else is out on the rock islands. From the view point I looked down 200 feet to a couple hundred Steller and California sea lions all mixed together.
A bunch were out in the water gathered in several groups. They were probably all young ones gathered together for some kind of class from one of the moms. They just kinda hung out like that, moving around just a little, breaking up and then reforming the group.
Back on the ledges they were less well behaved. Lots of bickering between the California guys, One would decided to get to an empty space by crawling over everyone else. Some couldn't care less but some took offense and they would open their mouths at each other.
It wasn't hard to spot the males of either type. They are at least twice the size of the females. The male California sea lions get quite large also. Steller seals average between 1200-1500 but can get as large as 2000 pounds and 10 feet long. Females go between 500-700 pounds. Pups are born at 40-50 pounds and live 20-25 years.
The other part of the attraction is the sea caves. The attendant had told me the sea lions were out on the ledges and to go there first. Then I went down 200 feet in an elevator to the caves. They're 125 feet high and 50 feet wide or so, one of the largest sea caves in the world. A rock island projects up out of the middle and 3 California sea lions were up on it making for some nice pictures.
Stopped off at Cape Perpetua. The best view on the Oregon Coast is supposed to be from the overlook on top of a nearby 800 foot mountain. The road to the top is closed off for construction and I didn't have time to do the hike. Waves have eroded channels through volcanic ledges. In one place the waves continue to undercut the ledges. In another they've created a small sea cave and other forces have created a hole in the roof. Now, when waves come crashing in, they fill up the sea cave and force a water spout out through the hole.
Spent a few minutes talking to a guy while his wife painted a water color. He spotted a small whale off shore he claimed was a minke whale. They have those in Frenchman's Bay at Acadia National Park in Maine too. Then I spotted a couple of Steller sea lions riding along parallel to incoming waves. Great stuff.
It was getting late and I had to find a place for the night so I headed north and ended up at Wal-Mart in Newport. I plan on going back to Cape Perpetua tomorrow. Lots of ledges and tidal pools between Strawberry Hill turnout and Yachats. Turned out to be a very good day, weatherwise... no rain and some sun.
04/30/03:
Newport has a no overnight parking city ordinance so it was back down to Waldport and the Beachside State Park for the night. At least I got to watch a nice sunset across the ocean. No rain last night and just the normal overcast this 40's morning.
First stop, the best view in Oregon. You can drive or hike up the 800 foot mountain, I drove. Really not much of a view up there. The road, bridge under construction, visitor center. The view of the coast just showed a pine covered point, the ledges and tidal pools with the tide out. Glad I didn't hike up.
Back at Cape Perpetua the tide was an 1.5 hours or so beyond low tide. Lots of exposed ledges with tidal pools. Went down and began exploring. The pools near land had little or no life except a green scum. A little farther out the green sea anemomes began appearing. Farther out they appeared in great numbers, some of them quite large. Purple sea urchins showed up in clusters here and there.
Starfish don't seem to like pools but hang out where ever there are rough, wet rocks, especially if there are corners or overhangs. Lots of purple and quite a few orange starfish. A few of them in the 12inch+ range.
I was hunkered down trying to take a picture. All my attention was focused on what I was doing. Then I heard a woof, nearby. What was that? I stopped, looked around but didn't see anything. Focused on the picture I heard the woof again with the same results. This happened several times until finally I also noticed a mist. Turns out I was taking a photo near a small blow hole. The incoming tide would send a wave in against the volcanic ledge that apparently had been undercut somewhat. A hole had also developed from the top and the pressure sent the water up and out of the blow hole. It really wasn't saying woof, it was woosh.
When I got to the south end of Yachats I turned up Yachats River Road. Elk viewing is supposed to be very good in the pastures between miles 3 and 6. I only saw one elk but it was mid-morning by then.
Back in Newport I surprised myself by paying $11 to visit the Oregon Coast Aquarium. The first thing I saw was something called a Leafy Sea Dragon. A relative of the sea horse but much larger it was really impressive. About 12 inches long and 9 inches high it has a sea horse type face, long, sticklike body and appears to be draped in white lace. This is a really beautiful creature.
Many aquarium like exhibits and a tidal petting pool for the kids. And there were kids there. A couple of buses of 6-8 year olds, a couple more of older kids and a couple more buses of old geezers. An aviary that had puffins which I've always wanted to see. Sea otters and seals and sea lions.
05/01/03:
Continued moving north but didn't see much. Took Three Cape Scenic Loop and stopped to camp at Cape Lookout State Park. They were in the process of raising their rates from $12 to $16 for the summer. And so ends my Oregon coast adventures. There's no free camping and private campgrounds will be higher. I found a county campground for the night but don't know where else they might be.
At least I got to watch some bald eagles for a while. The campground is on a bay but the tide was out. When the tide went out, the sea gulls, egrets and blue herons came to feed. I wasn't paying them any mind when all of a sudden all the gulls started squawking and took off while the egrets and herons couldn't have cared less. Looking up I saw a bald eagle circling overhead, then another and then another.
Eagles will feed on sea gulls if they catch them on the ground. That's funny because in Maine I had watched sea gulls harass a bald eagle in the air with a fish until he gave up and dropped it. So the gulls were small enough to be scared but the egrets and herons were large enough to be unconcerned about the eagles attacking something they couldn't carry off.